Cat Accessories Starter Kit UK: What You Actually Need

A few decisions made before purchasing any accessories will save time and money later.

The first is whether the cat will be indoor-only, allowed outdoors unsupervised, or somewhere in between. This affects what you need from day one. An indoor cat needs more environmental enrichment built into the home. A cat with outdoor access will need a microchip and, if using a cat flap, a compatible one. A newly rehomed cat or kitten will need to be kept indoors for a settling-in period regardless of your long-term plans, so outdoor-specific purchases can wait.

The second is the cat's age. Kittens and adult cats share most of the same core needs, but kittens require more careful supervision, different food, and often additional safety measures around the home.

On microchipping: while it is not yet a legal requirement for cats in England as of 2025, it is strongly recommended, widely available through vets and some rescue organisations, and is a condition of rehoming from many UK rescue centres. It is not an accessory purchase but is worth arranging early.

If your cat will stay indoors, our indoor cat stimulation guide helps map a practical day-to-day setup.

Choosing a Litter Tray

A litter tray is the single most important purchase for any cat owner in the UK, whether the cat goes outdoors or not. Even cats with garden access use a tray at some point, particularly during the settling-in period, in bad weather, or when unwell.

The standard guidance is one tray per cat, plus one extra. A single-cat household typically needs at least two. This reduces the pressure on any one tray and gives the cat an alternative if one tray is temporarily inaccessible or insufficiently clean.

Open trays are the most basic option: a simple rectangular pan available in various sizes. They are easy to clean and widely available. A larger tray is nearly always better than a smaller one. Cats prefer space to move, dig and position themselves, and a tray that is too small will often be avoided.

Covered or hooded trays suit some cats and are disliked by others. They can help contain scatter and reduce odour, but trap smells inside as well as out. If the tray is not cleaned frequently enough, a covered design can put the cat off using it. Some cats feel enclosed or trapped in a hooded design, particularly those that are nervous or have had previous negative experiences.

High-sided trays are a useful middle ground. They contain scatter without fully enclosing the cat, and are particularly practical for cats that dig enthusiastically.

Self-cleaning electric trays exist but are expensive and not necessary for most households. They also require the cat to become accustomed to the mechanism.

Litter Types

Clumping litter is the most popular type in the UK for good reason. It forms solid clumps around urine that can be scooped cleanly, leaving the rest of the tray in use. This makes daily maintenance faster and extends the time between full tray changes.

Non-clumping litter absorbs moisture but does not form solid clumps. It tends to require more frequent full changes and makes it harder to gauge how much the cat is urinating, which can be a useful indicator of health.

Wood pellet litters are increasingly common in the UK and have a loyal following. They absorb moisture and break down into sawdust, are often less dusty than clay alternatives, and tend to be lighter to carry. Some cats take time to accept the texture.

Silica gel crystal litters absorb well and have low dust, but are more expensive and some cats dislike the feel underfoot.

Unscented litter is generally recommended over heavily fragranced versions. Cats have a sensitive sense of smell, and strong artificial fragrances can put them off using the tray. A clean tray managed well is more effective than a poorly maintained tray masked with scent.

A litter scoop is a small but essential purchase. Slotted plastic scoops are the standard choice. A lidded nappy bin or dedicated odour-sealing litter bin is a practical addition for UK homes without easy outdoor bin access.

Placement

Litter trays should be placed away from the cat's food and water. Cats are naturally averse to eliminating near their eating area. Quiet corners that give the cat a degree of privacy work well; high-traffic areas or noisy spots near appliances are more likely to put cats off.

Material

Stainless steel is the most practical everyday choice for cat bowls in the UK. It does not scratch in the way that plastic does, tolerates high-temperature dishwasher cleaning, and does not harbour bacteria in surface scratches. Many cats develop feline acne on the chin, a condition that can be associated with bacteria from plastic bowls, though individual responses vary.

Ceramic bowls are heavier, which helps with stability, and are easy to clean. Like dog bowls, they chip over time, and a chipped ceramic bowl can trap bacteria in the crack. Check regularly and replace when damaged.

Plastic bowls are inexpensive and widely sold, but the practical downsides for cats are more significant than they are often presented. Beyond the bacteria concern, softer plastics can retain food odours that cats find off-putting, and scratched surfaces degrade quickly.

Shape and Size

A shallow, wide bowl suits most cats better than a deep, narrow one. Cats can be sensitive to their whiskers touching the sides of a bowl during feeding, a phenomenon sometimes called whisker fatigue. Whether this is a significant welfare issue is debated, but a wide, flat dish solves it entirely and is generally accepted well.

Water

Cats in the UK, like cats generally, are often low-level drinkers. Many cats prefer moving water to a standing bowl, which is why water fountains have become a mainstream product in the cat accessory market. A cat fountain recirculates water continuously, which encourages some cats to drink more and may help reduce the risk of urinary tract issues over time.

That said, a standard shallow water bowl that is topped up and cleaned daily is sufficient. Fountains are a useful addition rather than an essential from day one. The main requirement is that water is always available and the bowl is cleaned regularly, as cats will often avoid a stale or slimy water bowl.

Keep water away from food if possible. Many cats prefer to drink away from their eating area.

Cats sleep for a large portion of the day and will choose their own resting spots regardless of what you provide. That said, giving them suitable, comfortable options reduces the likelihood of them claiming furniture or inaccessible spots exclusively.

Types

Enclosed beds, sometimes called igloo or cave beds, suit cats that feel more secure when enclosed. Many cats naturally gravitate toward covered spaces and will take to this design readily. They are available widely in UK pet shops and online.

Open beds and mats are simpler. A padded mat or cushioned bed placed on an elevated surface, such as a windowsill pad or shelf, is often appreciated. Cats frequently prefer height: a raised position gives them a view of the room and a sense of security.

Hammock-style beds that attach to a radiator are popular in UK homes and practical in terms of floor space. They use wasted wall space and provide warmth, which most cats appreciate. Most designs attach with adjustable hooks and fit standard UK radiators. Weight limits vary; checking the manufacturer's recommendation for heavier cats is worthwhile.

What to Look For

Washability is the most important practical consideration. Cat beds collect hair, dander and the occasional accident. A bed with a removable, machine-washable cover makes regular cleaning straightforward. Check washing temperature recommendations: some covers tolerate higher temperatures than others, which affects how thoroughly they can be cleaned.

Sizing should give the cat room to stretch out fully even if it tends to curl up. A bed that looks barely large enough is often used less than one that provides more space.

For a new kitten or a recently rehomed cat, a soft blanket with a familiar scent can help with settling in. An item of worn clothing placed in the sleeping area for the first few nights is a simple, low-cost way to provide reassurance.

A scratching post is not optional. Cats scratch to maintain their claws, stretch their muscles and mark territory. Without a suitable outlet, most cats will use furniture, carpets or door frames instead. This is not a behavioural problem to be solved later; it is a predictable need to be met from day one.

Types and Materials

Upright posts should be tall enough for the cat to scratch at full stretch while standing on its hind legs. Short posts that only allow a crouched scratch position are used less reliably, particularly by larger cats. A height of around 60 to 90 centimetres is suitable for most adult cats.

Sisal rope is the most effective covering material. It offers good resistance for claw dragging and tends to be preferred by most cats over carpet-covered posts. Carpet posts are widely sold but can cause confusion in households where the cat is also being discouraged from scratching floor carpets.

Corrugated cardboard scratch pads are popular, inexpensive and used enthusiastically by many cats. They can be placed horizontally on the floor, which suits cats that prefer to scratch flat surfaces. They wear out and need replacing regularly, but the low cost makes this a minor issue.

A stable base is essential. A post that wobbles when used will quickly be abandoned. The heavier and wider the base, the more stable the post.

Cat trees and activity centres combine scratching surfaces with climbing platforms, resting shelves and sometimes toy attachments. For indoor cats in particular, a cat tree provides environmental enrichment beyond the scratching function. They range considerably in size and price; the main quality consideration is stability when a cat jumps onto or descends from the upper levels.

A carrier is needed for vet visits, travel, emergencies and any journey by car. It is not a purchase that can wait until it is needed urgently.

Hard plastic carriers with a removable top or a front-opening door are the most practical option for most UK households. They are easy to clean, robust and widely available. The ability to remove the top is useful at the vet: many cats are less stressed if they can be examined while remaining in the bottom half of the carrier rather than being tipped out.

Soft-sided carriers are lighter and more compact to store. They are suitable for calm cats but can be difficult to manage with a cat that resists being placed inside, and a determined cat can potentially damage the mesh. They are generally not recommended for regular vet visits with anxious animals.

Size matters: the carrier should be large enough for the cat to stand up, turn around and lie down. Oversized carriers can make cats feel less secure during travel, as they are jostled around more.

Familiarising a cat with the carrier well in advance of any journey makes the experience significantly less stressful. Leaving it out with the door open, placing a familiar blanket inside and occasionally putting treats in it helps the cat associate the carrier with neutral or positive experiences rather than exclusively with vet trips.

The full cat toys guide on this site covers product types and recommendations in detail. For the purposes of a starter kit, the core point is that play is not a luxury for cats; it is a significant welfare need, particularly for indoor cats.

Active wand toys that mimic prey movement, simple balls and crinkle toys are the immediate essentials. Puzzle feeders, which make the cat work for part of its food, are a practical addition for indoor cats. Catnip toys are widely available and are effective for roughly half to two-thirds of cats; the response to catnip is genetic, so not all cats react to it.

Rotation helps. A smaller number of toys that are swapped out periodically tends to keep cats more engaged than a large permanent selection that loses novelty.

For cats that will eventually go outdoors, a cat flap is the most practical way to manage access without requiring the owner to open a door repeatedly throughout the day.

Microchip cat flaps read the cat's existing microchip and only unlock for registered animals. This prevents neighbouring cats from entering and is a significant upgrade over magnet or infrared collar-based designs, which can be triggered by any animal wearing the right collar. Most UK vets recommend microchip flaps as the standard choice.

Fitting a cat flap into a UPVC door is a common requirement in UK homes and most are designed with this in mind. Installation into glass panels is possible but requires professional fitting.

Cats should be kept indoors for at least four weeks after arriving in a new home before being allowed outdoors, longer for kittens until they are vaccinated and neutered. The cat flap purchase does not need to be made urgently.

It also helps to compare this page with our cat beds guide and cat toys guide so your bed, scratch and enrichment choices work together.